China's four classic natural climbing grounds

Yangshuo, Petty Rock Dance

In Yangshuo there is a very petty bourgeoisie saying: I am not in the bar, just on the way to the bar; I am not on the rock wall, just on the way to the rock wall.

The first impression of Yangshuo was the summer of 1999. At that time, Huang Chao was still at the “Red Star Express”. We sat in front of the bar, basking in the warm sunshine of the afternoon, drinking sichuan beer, and eating delicious PIZZA. We did not even think that we would stay in Yangshuo one day. But also opened his own bar.

At that time, it was influenced by Tintin's article. I felt that there was such a good rock wall and a comfortable life before I planned to see it. As a result, I fell into it. From then on until the end of 2000, I spent 8 years in Yangshuo. I spent at least one week each time climbing, climbing, resting, and climbing. Tired, go to Lijiang or Yulong River to swim. Finally, I decided to stay in Yangshuo to open a bar and rock climbing themed bar.

The biggest feature of the bar is the building of a bouldering wall with straight walls and slopes, a 4-meter long eaves, and a 2-meter-high upright eaves. It was a bouldering pavilion with a very good domestic design. We hold bouldering every weekend and the prize is initially beer. Afterwards, bars and shops in the street were joined to sponsor PIZZA and clothing. On one occasion, our prize was MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR's trench coat and SEA TO SUMMIT's rope bag and powder bag. The result attracted fierce competition. As the organizer, I could not participate in the competition and had no choice but to make them referees.

There are a variety of people participating in the competition, including local enthusiasts in Yangshuo, waiters from various bars, and more rock climbing enthusiasts from all over the country. Every traditional holiday such as May 1st, 11th, New Year's Day and Spring Festival is overcrowded here. People on the street can definitely describe themselves with shoulders. Once the festival is over, it is difficult to find a tourist on the street. Occasionally, there were one or two wandering through the bar street. Each of the WAITRE's eyes widened. They couldn't wait to pick him up and grabbed it.* He ordered two dishes and had a drink before he could release.

Yangshuo passed quickly, but I would like to share with you my impression of Yangshuo.

Rock climbing route:

There are currently nearly 50 climbing routes in Yangshuo, probably distributed as follows:

1. Moon Hill: 15 routes. There are numerous openers, including TODD SKINNER from the United States, DANNIEL from Hong Kong, CRAIG LUEBBEN from the United States, and some Japanese. The difficulty is between 5.9 and 5.13D, and the route length is between 20-25 meters. With 55 meters climbing rope.

Evaluation: Four-star climbing rock field. There are many routes, different levels of difficulty, beautiful scenery and fresh air.

Suitable for rock climbing season: The rock face faces north, the summer is the most suitable, and the sun does not reach the sun. There is a breeze. You can climb in windy and rainy weather because there are big houses that can stop the rain. Winter is not appropriate, rocks are as cold as ice.

2. Tongmenshan: 5 routes. The person who developed the route was Australia's KEN. He developed five routes in 2000. The Chinese and Chinese from Taiwan and Li Shu from Beijing developed the sixth route, with difficulty between 5.9 and 5.12A.

Rating: Five-star rock climbing rock farm. Because there are many routes, near the Yulong River, you can swim and dive bamboo after climbing.

Suitable for rock climbing season: The rock faces east, as long as it does not rain, it is suitable; in the summer it is best to go in the morning or evening, not in the sun; in the winter, it is best to go at noon and warm.

3. Thumb peak: 7 routes. Australian KEN developed the first coupon: After “HAPPY NEW YEAR”, I and Liu Xinan developed a wealthy line, a lucky money line, and bugs developed a dice route and golden boat route, as well as 3 from Hong Kong. The British developed the Red Bull route. Happy New Year is the easiest, the difficulty is 5.8 - 5.10, and the others are around 5.11.

Rating: Three-star climbing rock farm. Because there are many routes, the difficulty is different; on the roadside, the traffic is convenient.

4. Middle Finger Peak: 2 routes. One is SNOOPY for TODD, and the other is BIG BROTHER route developed by CRAIG LUEBBEN. The height is about 80 meters and requires double rope climbing.

Evaluation: Three-star climbing rock field, a good place for traditional climbing.

5. Butterfly Spring: A hanging course named "Beautiful Butterfly" was developed by Tintin and I in early October 2001 as the second national climbing festival competition line. The difficulty is 5.10B.

Evaluation: One-star climbing rock farm, Butterfly Spring Park charges, so bad mood.

6. Jiupinshan: The 9 lines, most of which are from Li’s Beijing, were completed with the help of Zhang Lei’an, the owner of East-West Square, and with the assistance of Zhong Zhong, Ma Hui, and Qiu Xiang. The difficulty range is 5.8 - 5.11.

China's four classic natural climbing ground NO2
Stone Forest is a paradise for bouldering! Here, an area of ​​several hundred kilometers in radius is an independent small pinnacle, with a height of about 10 meters. Each is standing on its own and watching each other as if it were ancient soldiers.

When I first saw Shilin in 1999, I was shocked by the situation here. At that time, it was planned to go to Shilin to see the scenery. After seeing the stone forest, he stopped looking at the scenery and tried to climb every stone that could be climbed.

In fact, Shilin Park is only a small part of Shilin, with an area of ​​about 10 square kilometers. From Nanning to Kunming on the Nankun Line, about half an hour or so is passed through the "ocean" of Shilin! The two banks are all high and low rocks. Friends who like bouldering feel certain that they are swimming in a bouldering paradise.

Kunming's Wang Erdai took us to a place where they had long sincerely wished, just next to the Shilin Railway Station, about 200 meters east. The rock face of this piece is about 10 meters high and the highest is about 15 meters. On the day of the visit, the sun was shining, the temperature was around 25 degrees, and there was a breeze. It was more pleasant.

The landforms here belong to the wind erosion karst landscape, so the stone surface is sharper than Yangshuo's rock wall. Be careful when climbing to prevent scratches. Especially the top of the stone is sharper, like a knife, it is chilling. This point, I experienced the deepest, because then I SOLO two independent stones. I don't really support SOLO because I think it would be dangerous, especially if I haven't climbed the rock wall, there are many unknown factors, such as loose stones, or lurking lice, etc. (in 1994, I was climbing the White River Canyon in Beijing. At the time of the monument, a green urn was found beneath the stone on the rock wall. However, the stone here is relatively strong, and the rock is harder and cleaner.

After careful reconnaissance, I chose another, relatively simple stone, with a height of about 13 meters. It is not difficult and the route is relatively clear. After carefully watching the climbing and descending routes, he stabilized his emotions. The bouldering pad was placed under the rock, but I knew it was a decoration and it really fell off.

The first 4, 5 meters, I feel like the general bouldering, my heart is no pressure, I believe that jumping, there is no problem. When I went up, my heart was a little uneasy, because when I looked down, I already felt that the bouldering pad was a bit far away, and the flower was no longer visible, but I knew that my hands and feet were still strong and I had no panic in my heart and continued to be stable. Climbing.

Basically, I climbed upwards in accordance with the basic requirements of climbing: three fixed points, moving another point, so after I reached up and grabbed a new point, I would pull my hand a few times to make sure that it would not loosen up. Take power and apply force. The same goes for the feet. After moving up, step on it first, and feel that it is no longer loose. The tip of the rock has been stepped on and the center of gravity will be shifted. In this way, I'm accompanied by a small stone tip that I constantly hear on the way. The crackling sound moved up. When it reaches the top, the pressure in my heart is approaching the limit: On the one hand, knowing that I am about to reach the top, on the other hand, I also know that if I let go, I will be hurt and not light.

Transportation: Shilin is in the east of Kunming, about 80 kilometers from Kunming. There is a daily round-trip travel ticket (fare is 40 yuan), and there are a lot of road cars. The car is also very convenient, about one and a half hours or so, the price is 25 yuan.

Climbing NO3, Huashan, Granite Wall Climbing

That year, I stood on the first line of the northern peak of Huashan Mountain. Looking at the peaks of the Huaxishan Mountain, I always thought: One day, I will come back and climb this rock wall. There is no idea of ​​conquering, and my heart is full of emotions. It's kind of passionate.

The time soon passed and I graduated in an instant. I worked in an instant for six years. There were several impulses in the middle and I wanted to go and see again. But there are too many factors that have led me to failure. There are also several times when you can't find a suitable partner. If you don't have enough equipment, you can just do it.

After another year, I became a full-time climber. Time is no longer a problem. The equipment is sponsored by the company. So the idea of ​​climbing Huashan jumped again. At the beginning of April, Xi'an held the first national TV tower climbing competition. Just as my partner Liu Xinan was also invited, I went to Huashan to find a route.

At the same time, there are also Luo Jun from Tianjin and several rock climbing enthusiasts from Xi'an, including Zhao Wei. They are more familiar with Huashan and also know the route that the French climbed in the previous two years and the route that the Japanese climbed. Among them, Zhao Hao also saved a young man who was trapped on the cliff because of fare evasion last year.

Our group of people came from the Dongshan Gate and took about 3 kilometers. After three big "Z"-type turns, we saw a large boulder on the opposite side. There are five routes that the Japanese opened last year. It is said that they are some of Japan's top masters and their coaches: A 60-year-old man, who developed five days before he opened, actually each route is not long, about 13-15 meters, on a huge stone, Each route is very distinctive and clean. According to Xi'an friends, they took only two days to open the route, but it took four or five days to clear the route.

Since we arrived at the bottom of the rock it was already around 2pm, so we didn't climb the entire route and just climbed 3 routes. Each one is not simple. The course of the route is clear and challenging. It can be seen that they really spent a long time on the research route, instead of simply playing the top chain, and then playing on the side, the distance is right. .

The rocks here are of a granite texture. Similar to those in the White River Canyon in Beijing, the points are relatively small, the rock walls are slippery, and they need good flexibility, balance and skill and good psychological qualities! Because if the feet A slip, it will be attached to the rock surface, was a small gravel cut through the skin, I was climbing the feeling is cautious, for fear that his stomach was cut open. So I tried 3 times before RED POINT (red dot) had a difficulty around 5.11D. Because at that time we had been climbing for a year and a half on the limestone rock wall and basically forgot how to climb the granite wall.

Transportation: There is a special tourist line (bus) to Huashan from Xi'an Railway Station. It costs about 25 yuan every half an hour. Golden Dragon bus, comfortable and luxurious. The car will stop at the western hillside of Huashan. Here is the traditional uphill route. You can cross the sky and the north peak before you reach Xifeng. You can also take the tour bus of the Huashan Management Office and sit down at the North Peak Cableway stop in Dongshan Gate and take the cableway up the hill. Tickets are 10 yuan, cable tickets are 90 yuan, and Huashan tickets are around 80 yuan.

China's four classic natural climbing ground NO4
The rock climbing in Kunming started relatively late, but the progress is OK. There are several nucleus powers, such as bugs, Wang Er and Xiao Ma, which have played a leading role in the development of rock climbing in Kunming. In the two years, they used slash-and-burn methods to develop nearly 20 sports climbing routes in Xishan Park near Kunming's Dianchi Lake. Until the beginning of this year, they collected a total of 8 people to buy BOSCH charging hammer, only bid farewell to the history of hand drilling route, into the post-modern route development. In the 3rd and 4th months, more than 20 routes were concentrated and most of them focused on Pigeon Rock and Owl Rock on the edge of Longmen Village.

Pigeon Rock and Owl Rock are both below the Western Hills near Dianchi Lake. The route developed at Pigeon Rock avoided harassing pigeons as much as possible and opened the line on relatively flat rock walls. In Owl Rock, it was not so lucky. We encountered owls and there was a positive conflict. Of course, the result was that we were attacked and we did not dare to go there.

The climbing environment in Kunming should be the best in the country because it is suitable for rock climbing in the fall, winter and spring seasons, and the temperature is not high at around 20 degrees. In the summer, it is best not to go. There will be two weeks of continuous rain and it will be colder than in winter.

Rock climbing route:

In the old Xishan District of Kunming, there are nearly 20 routes in Longmen Scenic Spot, 10 routes for hanging pieces, and 10 traditional climbing routes. The Pigeon Rock near Longmen Village in Longmen has nearly 20 hanging pieces and its difficulty varies from 5.8 to 5.13. In Fumin County, near Kunming, there is a small creek valley, and 6-7 new filming routes have been created. The difficulty is different, and all are elevation angles.

traffic:

Longmencun Line: At the Liangjiahe station (Bus 5 and 6), there is a small bus to Haikou. After the Pigeon Rock area, it will cost 4 yuan and come back 3 yuan. You can also take the bus from Xiaoximen (50 meters to the west of the northwest corner of the crossroads. Take a sip. You can see a lot of buses entering and leaving the area. Look for the Haikou car. Every half hour, 4 yuan).

Longmen Line: In the above two locations, there is a car to Xishan. The fare is about RMB 5, and you can go directly to the parking lot next to the cable car station in Xishan Scenic Area. Then walk or take a coach to the door of the Longmen scenic area. Don't go in, look for the steps of the Xishan Mountain, and descend 20 meters or so. You can see a turning point where you can climb a rock climbing path. .

Kunming Shanyou contact: Li Zhi: (0871) 3626377 (very warm, you can also help arrange food and drink)

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